When I made my to-do list yesterday morning, I wrote down “blog about Paris trip.” I expected it to be a quick, lighthearted post about our vacation. Lighthearted, because so many people have already been to Paris, a city that seems to be the result of a centuries-long effort to create as many beautiful things as possible. What would I ever be able to say about it that was new?
I had no idea one of the highlights of that vacation would meet with tragedy.
We did a lot of things in Paris. A private guide ushered us around the Louvre and the Orsay for hours, telling us about great works of art. (It was supposed to be a small group tour, but no one else showed up.)
We ate in cafés where the waiters cheerfully switched to English after hearing our attempts to order in French. We walked through the opera house, the Palais Garnier, after hours.
We toured Versailles and drank hot wine in the chilly gardens.
At Père Lachaise cemetery, we looked for the graves of Oscar Wilde and Frédéric Chopin, but couldn’t find them. We’ve never been good at directions. And so what? As Mr. Donovan said, all the people buried there were important.
We strolled through the Luxembourg Garden and the Tuileries Garden.
We visited the Rodin Museum, seeking out the bust of Charles Baudelaire. And we went to the Cluny Museum early and took in the mystery of the unicorn tapestries, which had fascinated me since I was a child. We had the room to ourselves.
In our hotel room one morning, we heard a woman in a nearby apartment screaming at someone—in French, of course, except for a couple of expletives in English. Another morning, we had a romantic time and ate chocolate croissants afterward.
We went to Montmartre and listened to a man play classical guitar on the street.
We went to the top of the Eiffel Tower at twilight, when the whole city looked blue. On the ground again, we reveled in the sight of the Tower at night.
Once we’d gotten on the plane to go home, though, I asked Mr. Donovan what his favorite thing had been. He said, “Notre-Dame.”
And I wasn’t surprised. In a city filled with lavish beauty, it was probably the most beautiful thing of all.
We spent a long time in Notre-Dame Cathedral, eleven days ago. A youth choir was singing, and for a long while, we sat in the pews: listening, looking up at the high arched ceiling and the windows, and praying.
Mr. Donovan lit a candle for his father, who passed away last year. We talked about how he would’ve loved it, and then I felt like he was there, enjoying it with us. We took in beautiful paintings, sculptures, and carved wooden scenes of Jesus and His disciples.
And then we walked all the way around the outside of the building. The cherry trees were all in bloom.
It’s shocking to think of how much can change in an instant. The city has rebuilt after devastating losses—the Franco-Prussian War, the Commune, and the World Wars are only the more recent examples. But it hurt so much for me, an American who had been there only once, to see the cathedral in flames. I can’t imagine what it must be like for the people of Paris.
Most of my days aren’t like the ones we spent in Paris, filled with beauty and wonder. I split the time between the office and our apartment, and many days can feel the same.
I try to write down at least something about every day in my diary. And there is always some small detail—so ordinary, it seems at the time, barely worthy of mention—that triggers my memory when I read over entries later. The whole day can come rushing back to me. The little details become precious.
So much disappears. So many things burn behind us like ships. We know that everything will be lost, even things that felt like they would last forever.
But every day is a chance to appreciate the things around us…and even more, the people around us. And every day, no matter what, we are building something new.
Sounds like ya’ll had a wonderful time. Great pictures.
We really did. And it’s easy to get great pictures there! Thanks for reading.
Thanks for sharing that. I’ve never been ther but you made me feel like I had. My son was there 2 days before the fire. I’m looking forward to hearing his impressions as well.
Thank you for reading, Diane. My goodness…your son was there right before it happened! I am so glad he got to see it.
Thanks for your trip review and thoughts of Paris as we all mourn the damage to Notre-Dame.
Thank you, Bob! Thanks for reading.
It is refreshing to see Our Lady as she used to be instead of dwell on the horror that happen, yesterday.
Aw thanks Jeanne. I am happy to hear that at least some of it was saved!
I know a lot of money is being donated for a restoration, but don’t know if that is the best choice. Intense heat tends to weaken mortar, for one thing. Another thing is that rebuilding it as it was would be impossible. We no longer have craftsmen of that sort and aged wood looks much different from new wood. The more I think about it, the more I think just cleaning up the mess then leaving it as is might be the best choice – other ancient ruins are still tourist sites, plus if the walls were left standing, it could be a reminder of the true history.
My opinion – feel free to disagree.
It was almost a year since we visited Paris for the first tme and I so loved it. Notre Dame was one of the highlights and I was devestaed as we watched it burn on the news last night. Your post was timely. xo
Hi, Darlene! It really was an amazing place, wasn’t it? Although it won’t be the same, I know it will be amazing again.
It was on my bucket list to see Notre-Dame. Alas, not to be. Cherish the memories you have! And believe in a resurrection.
Hi, David! Yes, I do believe in a resurrection…and maybe you will see it in its new, rebuilt form. Thanks for reading, and thanks for commenting!
Beautifully said 🙂
Beautifully said. I also agree with you. I was fortunate enough to be part of an honor choir that toured Europe for a month when I was a teenager. Of all the sites I saw, few moved me and gave me the sense of peace that Notre Dame did. I looked through my photos last night, remembering my time there. It was a blessing. Now I will need to find a way to go back once it is rebuilt.
Erin, wow, how amazing to be part of that choir. Mr. Donovan was saying last night, too, that we should go back once it is rebuilt. Wouldn’t that be something?
It would! There is so much they were able to save, but I know there are several things that will be forever changed. I’m curious if it will feel the same.
I read your blog pretty often and I never comment, but I have to tell you, your words struck me today.
“So much disappears. So many things burns behind us like ships. We know that everything will be lost, even things that felt like they would last forever.
But every day is a chance to appreciate the things around us…and even more, the people around us. And every day, no matter what, we are building something new.”
This is so true. Thank you for the reminder.
Dana, I’m so glad it resonated with you. Thanks for commenting…and thank you, always, for reading!
Thank you for sharing. Beautiful pictures! The devastation caused by the fire to this cultural icon is heartbreaking. But I’m sure, she will be resurrected. It may take a while but I’m hopeful. I was in Paris many years ago when I still lived in Europe and I have wonderful memories of this City of Light.
Hi, Christa! I am hopeful, too. The whole city is filled with so much beauty…we were truly amazed. Thanks for reading!
During the rebuilding period, a short stroll to St. Chapelle will be well worth a visit.
Ah, that is such a good tip!
Beautiful, poignant and true. Thank you for sharing with us
I appreciate that. Thank you for reading!
Thank you, Bryn. I don’t write every time I read your column, but you usually move me, teach me, inform me. tc
Tom, it’s great to hear from you, and I really appreciate the kind words. Thanks for reading!
Beautifully said, Bryn. I have not been to France, let alone Paris, but it’s always been a dream to go. When I saw that beautiful old structure burning, the deepest feeling of disbelief and sorrow came over me. It was like, “this can’t be”
My heart goes out to the people of France. I know their hearts are breaking.
Bonnie—yes, it was such a shock! I hope you go sometime if you want to. Thanks, you know I always like hearing from you.
Your comments and pictures reminded me of our visit to paris with our two girls in 1981 and, later with the boys in 1991 The first time we stayed on the left bank and walked across in front of Notre Dame each day. It was wonderful to visit. Like you, i loved the rose window.It is so sad that the 13th century windows were ruined. I know it is such a notable site and a centre of worship, people loved. I hope it is restored in time. My heart goes out to parisians and the French people who value their cathedrals.
Hi, Jane! It really was such a treasure, and the loss is such a heartbreak…as you say, especially for people who clearly value history and beauty so much. I’m so glad you have memories of it. Thanks for commenting.
What an excellent post. A brief tour bite and a definite burst of hope. We need that hope. Bless you.
Oh, Kris, thank you. I appreciate it! Thanks so much for reading.
Bryn: When I heard the tragic news that Notre Dame was on fire my heart sank. It was on my must see list. Thank you for sharing your experience. Your post was heartfelt and I always enjoy your writings and suggestions. May God smile on you always.
Hi, Joan! Yes, it was such a shock. I am so relieved that they were able to save what they could…at least if you do go see the reconstructed cathedral someday, you’ll see those original rose windows and many other old, beautiful things. 🙂 Thanks so much for the kind words!